Return to Baghdad Update 1

Orphans and Street Kids Project
Return to Baghdad Update 1
Saturday, 30 July 2005

Amman, Jordan - After leaving Washington on Wednesday, it took over 24 hours to finally reach my layover destination at the InterContinental Hotel in Amman. Arriving late at night, I was not able to fully grasp the unbelievable size or beauty of the city. Amman, with a population of nearly 2 million, is spread far and wide as it is constructed of buildings that mostly top off at the 7th or 8th story. This heavily residential city is built over many hills that allow for breathtaking views that show building upon building until you reach the horizon.

My first morning, Friday, I was able to catch up on some work that had been left by the wayside as I traveled. Once I completed these duties I caught one of the thousands of yellow taxis that zoom around the city and received a mini-tour as I made my way to the Mecca Mall. I was a bit taken back by the name, and even more taken back by the incredible western feeling this mall, and this city, has. The mall was checkered with western stores like; Banana Republic, United Benetton, Pizza Hut, Cinnabun, and the ever international Kentucky Fried Chicken.

When I finally returned to the hotel to grab my video camera and headed out to record a video diary, I discovered a part of Amman that lies under the beautiful surface. In contrast to the beautiful government homes and ministry buildings I saw while driving around in the taxis, the city I explored on foot was generally rubbish ridden and somewhat poor. Stepping around bags of garbage, eroding apartment buildings, and shady neighborhoods I felt a bit unsafe and moved with a great purpose. There seemed to be a great gap in the society, but perhaps I just have not visited the middle class areas. Because of the time I took exploring and the shadows of the setting sun, I was not able to capture much of what I had wished for and recorded inside.

During the evening I witnessed a much different Amman. While I sat on the hotel terrace café and smoked strawberry tobacco from the hookah pipe, a strong tradition in Middle Eastern countries, I was surrounded by a great variety. The men and women in this café were western dressed with sporadic traditionally dressed women in the head to toe garment. These women blend right into the atmosphere and remind me that I am in the Middle East.

Saturday morning I made contact with UNICEF and taxied to their compound, about 15 minutes from mine. Directions in this city would be nearly impossible without a good knowledge of the layout – Circle 6, behind the Mosque on Mosque Road, next to the former Prince Ali’s house…, good luck Mapquesting that! Unfortunately UNICEF does not work on weekends so I was stuck walking the back streets of Amman again. At least I have located the site for future visits.

This day in Amman was not as constructive as I intended, but it at least gave me time to prepare for what lies ahead. Saturday night I retired early since I had to be up at 3 AM for my flight the next morning.